How to Prep and Cook Cushaw Squash

It's exciting when an unfamiliar fruit or vegetable appears at fall markets. Even among the kaleidoscope of late-season winter squashes, the bulbous-bottomed, crook-necked cushaw stands out, intriguing cooks who live beyond its traditional cultivation range in the Southwestern United States and in Mexico. (Those familiar with it, please bear with us: The cushaw may be your beloved winter squash, but the rest of us are just catching up.) With its imposing size and large seeds, the cushaw is a beautiful and challenging fruit, and we are here to help guide you.

What Is Cushaw Squash?

Cushaw squash is a winter squash—squash that are allowed to mature on the vine before being harvested, unlike thin-skinned summer squash. It is produced by an annual vine, Cucurbita argyrosperma, sometimes described as C. mixta. Cushaw was cultivated as far back as 3,000 to 7,000 BC in Mesoamerica, making it one of the world's oldest crops, along with other squash species. The cushaw is still not widely cultivated in the U.S. beyond the Southwest, where it is a familiar seasonal crop. Its other common names include sweet potato pumpkin and crookneck pumpkin.

Characteristics of Cushaw Squash

While they can be—and are—eaten immature as an early summer squash delicacy, the fruits take all season to fill out and ripen fully, and are typically harvested in early fall. When shopping, look for cushaw squash with hard, thick skin and a dry stem. When ripe, the fruit weighs anywhere between 5 and 25 pounds.

Appearance

Cushaw squash is defined by its rounded bottom and meaty neck. The interior of the squash reveals light yellow to pale orange flesh that is mildly sweet, with large, edible seeds. Various iterations and cultivars of cushaw are beginning to arrive at market. The most recognizable form of cushaw has distinctive frosted green-and-white bands. Other varieties range from tri-colored—with orange tops and green bottoms, to orange-and-white striped, to a stately and ghostly white. The latter is the so-called Illinois squash, which claims heirloom status thanks to its seed reportedly being saved since its deployment in Abraham Lincoln's parental kitchen.

Flavor

Similar to its relatives butternut and acorn squash, cushaw squash has a mild, sweet flavor, with a slightly fibrous texture. "You can use it in place of pumpkin, sweet potato, and butternut squash," says Ann Ziata, chef at the Institute of Culinary Education.

How to Prepare Cushaw Squash

To prepare cushaw squash for cooking, start by slicing its neck into rounds (you can cut the rounds into halves if you wish). Carve off the skin to cook the slices in boiling water. Next, scoop the seeds out from the bottom. You can use the hollowed-out bottom as a roasting vessel, which is especially great when filled with Thanksgiving stuffing. "If it’s too hard to cut, bake the squash in the oven until it softens, and then slice through," says Ziata.

How to Cook Cushaw Squash

Cushaw squash can be used in a variety of dishes. Layer the cooked slices in a dish with cream, sugar, and a flurry of cinnamon, then bake it in a hot oven until bubbling. Or purée the cooked cushaw with butter or walnut oil and a lot of pepper and serve it as a side dish. Maple syrup never hurts, nor does a good squeeze of lemon or orange juice. To enjoy cushaw seeds as a healthy snack, rinse and clean them well before cooking in salted water for 10 minutes. Drain them and toss with oil and seasoning before roasting in a warm (325 degrees Fahrenheit) oven for 30 minutes.