How to Use a French Hair Pin to Create 3 Different Looks

You can use this U-shaped tool to create a classic bun or chignon—here's how.

Composite of hairstyles using french hair pin
Photo:

Courtesy of Saks Fifth Avenue, Deborah Pagani

If you're tired of wearing your hair in a classic ponytail or bun, the French hair pin—as intimidating as it may seem—is actually one of the best styling accessories to try. The trendy U-shaped pin can achieve a variety of hairstyles from a half-up, half-down look to the timeless chignon. Despite its versatility, the French hair pin's unique shape can make it daunting to use, which is why we're walking you through how to complete three different hairstyles using the accessory.

Ideal Hair Length for a French Hair Pin

When it comes to successfully using a French a pin, hair length is more important than the type of hair your have. "Make sure your hair is just past shoulder length or longer," says Laura Polko, an Aquage brand ambassador and celebrity hairstylist You'll need a decent amount of hair to twist and hold when styling." While this pin can be a fun way to test a new style, it is not for everyone: "Hair textures that are super fine or thinning most likely won't benefit from this accessory, because it requires enough hair to secure and hold the pin in place," Polko says.

The Best Styles to Create With a French Hair Pin

A bun or ponytail can feel tired after a while—but a French pin allows you to be more creative with your updos and is ultimately a healthier option. The accessory prevents damage induced by pulling, an unfortunate downside of hair ties. The French hair pin is most commonly used in buns and chignons since they offer security, and properly placing them into these styles is fairly easy. But they also work well for creating a half-up, half-down look, says Polko.

How to Do a Bun With a French Hair Pin

French hair pin bun

Deborah Pagani

Shop the hair pin: Deborah Pagani Large Rose Gold Hair Pin ($99)

Follow these steps to create a bun using hair pins, courtesy of celebrity hairstylist Matthew Collins and Andrew Fitzsimons, celebrity hairstylist and founder of Andrew Fitzsimons Hair.

  1. Blow-dry your hair and then run a hair straightener through your strands to eliminate frizz.
  2. Spritz hair with a texturizing spray; this is especially important if you have fine hair, says Fitzsimons, since the product will provide more grip.
  3. Next, gather hair at the back of your head and twist it all in one direction. As you twist, you'll notice hair will start to wrap in on itself into a bun as you get closer to your scalp, Collins says.
  4. Once your hair completely twisted, stick the fork end of the pin into the spot where the end pieces of your hair are in the twist; weave it back and forth to ensure it stays in place.

"Don't fret if the pin doesn't hold in your hair the first time you try this method," Collins says. "You may need to twist and pin it a couple of times until you get the hang of how to fasten your look."

How to Do a Chignon With a French Hair Pin

French hair pin updo

Deborah Pagani

Shop the hair pin: Deborah Pagani Large Goldplated Hair Pin ($99)

As for how to use a French hair pin to craft a classic chignon, which looks more like a vertical twist than a wrapped bun? Polko has an easy method for creating this signature style with the accessory.

  1. On washed hair, use a texturizing or sea salt spray to give the hair hold.
  2. Then, pull your hair into a low ponytail around the base of the neck, but don't secure it with an elastic.
  3. From there, twist hair around your thumb (hold strands in place using the thumb as a placeholder) and then insert a French pin between the nape of the hair and the top.
  4. Position the pin by directing the two prongs upwards and diagonal, then hook it up and through to tighten strands.
  5. Lastly, pull out some strands around your face and polish the look off with a finishing spray for hold. To keep the pin in place, she recommends avoiding products that will slick your hair, such as oil.

How to Do a Half-Up, Half-Down Bun With a French Hair Pin

Half-up hairstyle with french pin

Deborah Pagani

Shop the hair pin: Deborah Pagani Silver Pearl Hair Pin ($110)

To recreate a half-up, half-down bun, follow these steps from Sharie Wilson and Tonya Thompson, stylists and owners of DreamGirls Salon.

  1. Starting with clean and dry hair, comb out any tangles or knots with a detangling brush to prevent breakage and to ensure a smooth finish.
  2. Separate the top section of your hair, starting from the temple area, gathering it towards the crown of your head. Use a hair tie to hold this section in place temporarily and brush out the remaining hair that is out.
  3. Remove the hair tie while holding your hair so that it stays in place after you remove the hair tie.
  4. Begin twisting the hair clockwise, pulling it towards the back of your head. As you twist, the hair will naturally start to form a bun shape. Continue twisting until you're satisfied with the bun's size and shape.
  5. Hold the bun firmly against your head with one hand. With your other hand, take the French hairpin and slide it through the twisted bun. The hairpin should enter through the top of the bun and then be pushed downwards through the middle, securing the bun in place against your head. You can also slide the hairpin diagonally across the bun, securing it further. 
Additional reporting by
Madeline Buiano
Madeline Buiano, Staff Writer for Martha Stewart

Madeline Buiano is an associate editor at MarthaStewart.com, sharing her knowledge on a range of topics—from gardening and cleaning to home and pets. She has five years of writing and editing experience in the digital publishing industry.

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